Monday, May 22, 2006

Cambodia Trip I (Flying to Siem Reap)


The 11 of us were bursting with excitement when we left for Siem Reap on 13 May. Although Air Asia is throwing lower price fare, the plane was like half full. Among the passengers were Malaysians and some Europeans.


The long walk way to the plane, we were suppose to follow the zebra lined path


As the plane touched down, we can see the changes of the landscape. The land was enveloped by thick filthy dust, and the vast padi field appears dried. It is the sign of dry season here in Cambodia.


We bore the heat wave to the arrival counter in airport, which there hung a few ceiling fans struggling to cool down the heat.

Our first shelter was Golden Temple Villa, a mid range guest house.



We had our first meal, most of us tried Amok chicken/fish, a local dish, which recipe includes frying the meat with green spices, then simmering with curry powder, and added fresh coconut cream, yummy. We tried the Angkor beer too. The meal cost us $3 each, not so cheap though. The currency I mentioned in the articles are mostly $ or USD. Here in Cambodia, their own currency's value is so negligible, their notes were only used for things less than $1 (USD) = 4000Riel.


Amok Chicken with coconut cream and stew beef


The local beer - Angkor


Taken from our guesthouse's garden pond, water lily is quite common here, don't u think my photography skill worth a credit?

We had a short walk at Artisans d'Angkor, a wood and stone carving centre.

This lady was polishing the stone carving by stroking it with plain fingers for a month or so! Asked why not using chemical varnish, the answer was because it won't look that appealing


stone carving



It reminds me of those ugly carvings I did on wood as an assignment for subject "Kemahiran Hidup"


Was it trying to say "Thanks, but no photograph please"?

We bugged the hotel staffs to learn their language, not forgetting words like "How much", "Discount please", "expensive" and numbers. "Beautiful" in Cambodian is called "Sa-at na". Yeah, it's important for me to learn as I do not want to miss it when others are complimenting me, good grace!



An eye-opener: You probably have heard about how they stuff as many passengers to a vehicle, but seeing it is anothing experience

Sunday, May 21, 2006

Cambodia trip in a nutshell

(This is the rest of the trip, yet to attach pictures to this entry.. so come back next time when I have updated...lol)

Catching Sunset in Angkor

We went to one of the Angkor temples, Ta Phrom, to catch the sunset that we then missed, it rained.

Interesting phrase from lonely planet on Ta Phrom:
"It has been left to be swallowed by the jungle...the temple is cloaked in dappled shadow, it's crumbling towers and walls locked in the slow muscular embrace of vast root systems... There is a poetic cycle to this venerable ruin, with humans first conquering nature to rapidly create, and nature once again conquering humans to slowly destroy."

The film Tomb Raider was shot here too, where Angelina Jolie picked a jasmine flower before falling through the earth into it.

We had dinner in a decent restaurant. The added cashew nut dishes, roast pork and tom yam soup still make me drool thinking about it.

We walked to the main street Ph Sivatha after meal, we were drawn to a magnificent hotel along the road. The top end hotels here in Cambodia look so amazing, they have beautiful marble flooring and exotic interior design, so out of world. Also, the way how they stand out from the street of Cambodia which dwelled and struggled with poverty, makes you ponder. In here, the rich and poor is such a contrast.

The common vehicle here is motorbike, even their small cab "tuk-tuk" is made out of motorbike dragged with a wagon like thingy. Occasionally we'll see vehicles like Toyota's Harrier, they were of the riches. It's really intimidating knowing the corruption in the government is so severe.

We stumbled across some kids who were studying under the dim light on the street, by the rubbish heap. Nevertheless, they were still the lucky ones, who get to go to school.

Mind you, the street where our guest house located, offers us some surprise too... those "karaoke" shop turned into "club" in the night. The red dim light tells you its role and service. With the over exposed clothing, the women stood and posed calling out for customers.


Bargaining for latin costume

Michelle spotted a small shop selling tailored made "dance" costumes. As a few of us learn latin dance, it caught our attention. Reluctantly I went in to ask the price. There laid a man on his "sun bathing" chair watching the football match. God knows was it the final of whatever football premier league which wasn't my concern at all.

Anyway, I threw my fresh Cambodian sentences.
"Sy serai", he didn't give a damn.
"Sy Serai" I shouted again, still no response, maybe I just need to freshen up my Cambodian.
"HELLO!!" finally the man reluctantly turned around.

Without much waste of time, I asked "Thlai pur man?"
He didn't really get it, then I said in English "HOW MUCH?"
He mumbled some figure in cambodian, and maybe English, nonetheless we didn't get it. He got a paper and wrote a figure looks like $ 10 and continued dwelled back to his world of football in front of the TV.

We didn't get the meaning of the scribble, looks like 4 but looks like 10 too. Then we shouted back, "How much? US DOLLAR?" He took back the paper and cross the dollar sign $, then wrote DOLA. It was really frustrating to deal with a seller who was captivated by the football match. I thought it only happens to the men in our country, apparently I was so wrong.

Ignoring his "ignorance", we start bargaining by shouting both English and Cambodian numbers "3" "4" "5", Coco and I started practicing the numbers from one to ten that we just learned today. It was a good laugh. Especially when the seller appeared deaf and still indulged in his TV throughout the "process".

We left the shop in vain, the seller didn't pay a slight intention. Annoyed, we took some pictures...of no reason, just want to remind ourselves about it. I just laughed off, "Probably his targeted market are all those prostitutes along the street". LOL


The multipurpose mouth mask

Coco brought 3 mouth masks she got from Vietnam. Sofea and I were "honored" to receive one each. They were of stunning color, embroided with cartoon characters. The air here was so filthy, the mask actually helps to allow clean air for breathing besides protecting from sunburn.
At night, Coco used it as eye mask to block the light from the stupid wall lamp we failed to turn off. Proudly she said it's really of multipurpose. I responded, yeah, it could be use as a hat too. Agreed, she added, and it can be used as piece of bra. I remember someone said it could be used as an underwear...lol... We have laughed so much


Angkor Wat Here I Come

We departed early in the morning to chase after sunrise. We reached the beautiful Angkor Temple early before 6am local time. We took many pictures of the dawn and patiently waited for the golden time, just like the rest of the other few hundred tourists crowd.

Then we visited Bayon, one of the most peculiar looking temples, it has over 200 hundreds big smiley faces.

The next temples were Angkor Thom.

Terrace of Elephant and Leper King.

Then we came to Vishnu complex, or called the Preah Khan

Pretty much a temple visit day. When our honest and sincere driver Han, brought us to Baksei Cham Krong, one of the earliest temple constructed by brick, we were like...oh man, not another temple!


Catching Sunset episode II

We struggled to the peak of hill at Phnom BahKheng, this time round we chased after sunset. We caught the beautiful sight of Angkor Wat and Tonle Sap Lake from far...

Amazing... magnificent...simply beautiful... I really run out of vocab to describe them. You got to be there to witness it yourself!

The crowd was like above 600 people when it was close to dusk. Then the dark cloud came... oh man, it was like in the movie...Independent day? Or any other disaster movie. Then it followed by loud thunder, it was so dangerous for us to stand on a high altitude on the hill. Yet we waited patiently.

When the first drop of rain came, the people ran wildly to escape. Our group stayed and kept each other sheltered with all means. The Australians were drinking their beer calmly and laughed over us as Asians being the only people with umbrella.

There stood a few domes with small entrance to a small space of like dog house... people hide in it, it's amazing how they managed to squeeze into it to about 5-8 people.

Yeah.. I don't need to tell you more... we missed the sunset...sob sob.. it rained! Like cats and dogs!


Night in at Siem Reap
We went to
Dead Fish for dinner. The restaurant is like a joke itself. It has a sign says, "we don't offer cheap food". Owing to fatigue, it failed to turn us away. It plays funny mix of music (salsa, 40's, rock n roll), it has dancers performing funny dance, it exhibits funny interior design, it has funny pet (real alligator!), funny plants, everything is just out of place. Lonely planet called it wicked sense of humor, I called it stupid.

We had a small walk to near old market. There, some amazing and classy clubs stood by the street, the design is so exotic. They were like the biggest mafia on the street, they even have police hired to guard the particular street. Here in Cambodia, it's all about $$$! Man, money does stink. We also passed by red piano, it looks astonishing by the street of cambodia. Bear in mind, the streets we walk are of red soil, without tar, just like most of the part of Cambodia.

The internet cafe is unique too.

There's a book store. I didn't check whether their copy of lonely planet Cambodia is an original one or counterfeit. But I knew they have the copy of The Alzheimer's, and obviously is a bad Xeroxed copy.

Oh yeah, I bought my flawless copy of Lonely planet from a Cambodian boy in Angkor Wat for $2.50. They even have Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia edition and others.

Yes, we went back for the "latin costume" bargain again. Bought four pieces for 4 of us... sexy...


A road trip to Phnom Penh

We spotted a possession of over 200 people for a wedding ceremony. I bet they walked long distance from one end to the other end of town to meet the bride. Lucky her, I would wish my Malaysian folks to do that for me if I were to get married one day. Forget about all luxuries accessories, big car...but just people...I will be like a star of the day!

We started out journey to Phnom Penh early in the morning. We took a shutter bus to the station. It honked it ways out...to us as foreigners, it sounds rather rude, but to them, it basically shouted, "I'm on my way, watch out!"

When we reached the station, the ticket collector politely says to all passengers, "GET OUT", I guessed he meant "Please get down". LOL.

We went to the public toilet, 7 of us... we were bargaining for the toilet entrance fees. I guess I got the hang of bargaining here. Next time I shall try barter system.

On the coach journey to Phnom Penh, we stopped by for lunch. Michelle revealed the secret recipe of the delicious soup noodle when she finished nearly the entire bowl, a dead fly.

Like a typical trip in a country side, the bus broke down. Someone mentioned that we could have reached Phnom Penh in the night and stay over just to catch our return coach the next morning, missing all opportunities to explore the capital. Lee, the leader of this trip said it was indeed part of the plan...lol

We went down from the coach and found a big bunch of dried grass, very queer looking... like an alien, and it stinks like cow dunk.

During the next stop, we saw a stall selling fried cricket and deep fried frog. I wouldn't have mind trying if not because of the many flies swarming around. A few of us tried, Coco said it tasted just like... a cricket! Wow...what a good description!

If you have questions about the land mines situation in Cambodia... Here's some fact.

"The legacy of land mines is one of the worst in the world, with estimated 5 millions dotted around country side. They still claim about 30 victims a month, a vast improvement from 300 a decade ago. The worst is, areas appear safe in dry season become unsafe during wet season as the earth softens. It happens to the farmers who waited for wet season for farming, only to have their dreams of new life shattered when a family member has a leg blown off by land mine."

Before the trip, my friend had even tried to explain to me how to release myself out from a land mine if I ever step on one. Yeah, right, too late to go for a training then.


Afternoon sights at Phnom Penh

We had a frightening experience when we got out from the coach in Phnom Penh, swarm of tuk-tuk and cab driver came surrounding us. They were just competing for the business, but we were in total shock as we were squeezed to no place to stand.

We were hooked to
Sen (855-011664054, 016388719) with his fluent English. I learned from this cab driver that the gasoline cost is $1.05/litre which is double of what we pay in Malaysia. He asked how much those Cambodian workers earn in Malaysia, I roughly estimated for the labour work, told him it's less than $200. He then said it's good money. As for him, he earned about $80/months minus the expenses for his business. His car loan was not from bank but from friend. For the bank mortgage here is only available to people owning properties/business.

We toured around the capital, visited Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, one with 5000 silver floor tiles weighing 1 kg each. Then, tried some bargaining skills at Russian market buying silk scaft, and souvenirs.

We went to the infamous Toul Sleng Museuam to witness the cruelest genocide history of Cambodia. It's so eerie, photographs of the prisoners gruesome death is displayed in the rooms where their decomposed corpses were found. There were signs explained clearly how they were tortured to death...hung to unconsciousness, soaked into "fertilizer" which stinks so to regain consiousness and continue the punishment. Pictures of them tortured into death by screwing metal steel into the skull...it just made me grew goose bump.

"It demonstrates the darkest side of human spirit that lurks within us all" (lonely planet).

Our hotel in Phnom Penh were cheap, Coco, Sofea and I shared a room of total cost $10, it's
Angkor International Hotel.

At night, we walked by the Tonle Sap riverside. The whole town is buzzling with activities, as if there was a special festival. According to the local, it's a daily culture to wonder around the river side and having "picnic". The Royal Palace appears beautiful with its glittering lights decor.

As we chatted how relaxing it is to live a simpler life, with whole family gather during nights doing nothing but admiring the night sky, Sofea responded, "Yeah...just look at the family of three, with the mother feeding its baby a near hatched duckling from the egg..." yuckss...why you so potong steam!

We spent the rest of the night in the hotel bar, as most of us are of latin dance kaki... we started dancing, from latin to hip hop and disco rock... man, I remember I was a little drunk. We really had a good time.


Journey back to Siem Reap

The 4th day of our trip was a little bit of drama. On our coach back to Siem Reap from P Penh, Michelle suddenly realized she left the video camera behind in the hotel after our coach had traveled for a few miles. We were delayed 15 mins just to sorted out this matter, fortunately the rest of the passengers didn't complain. Gary and Lee finally decided to go down from the coach and catch a ride back to hotel and find their own way back to Siem Reap later. It was such a panic because we are outsiders in a country speaking of different tongue and in an environment stranger to us.

The rest of us moved on with the journey, about half and hour later, our coach came to a halt, the guys were back! We were so excited, giving them applause, less standing ovation, just like to the heroes...


Floating Village by Tonle Sap

We went for boat ride at Tonle Sap lake, the largest natural fresh water lake in South East Asia. As vast as a sea, it looks beautiful in the afternoon sun. The residents are mainly Vietnamese immigrants dwell in poor and struggle through fishing life.

Eating by the road side

We went to old market to buy some souvenirs. At dusk, we were starving as we stood by the road. A lady then set up her stall selling mixed dishes and rice next to us. They look delicious, smell great too. But I told our dear friends, I ain't eating food at the road side due the hygiene concern and many advice from others that been to Cambodia in concern of food poisoning.

All I remember was, later then Lai Yee brought a spoonful of tomyam soup to my mouth, it tasted good, just like the others, I subconsciously sat down and wallop the rice and dishes. I must have been hungry too. Six of us ate a lot, and when ask for the "bill", we dropped our jaw... it was only $3 for altogether. Imagine, each one of us had paid for more than that just for a normal meal for the previous days.

We went for Khmer traditional Cambodian massage, a mixture of oil and Thai's. $10 for 2 hours, my masseur did a good job. Anyway, I'm not really into massage. I would have enjoyed it more if my bed weren't under the damn air cond! Coco said, "Of all place...!" Man, it wasn't my choice.

We tried to match make for Ray, he's one of our mate who didn't make it for this trip. He's 33 and still bitterly single (Yeah right, as if I'm of any better). I reckon my masseur is a kind, smiley and naïve lady. We took her pictures and got her contact. God knows, Ray probably would just love exotic type of Asian woman. Well, I agreed that they might make good wives.

It was mid night when we left the massage center, thank God we have torch light in hand. In this country, torch light is a necessity!


A good night sleep is all we need

At
Queen House Villa, Coco, Sofea and I tussled for good night sleep with an attempt to join the two single beds. We pushed, we pulled, we sweated...when the two beds finally met, we realized there's a big gap in between, and the floor was incredibly filthy. In vain, we brought back to their original position, wiped and cleaned the floor. Obviously too tired, we fell into deep sleep after some good laugh.

I could remember that the next day, Michelle complained about loud scratching noise at upstairs from our floor.


An exotic European dream

It caught our attention when the hotel owner, Mike is an Austrian. He told us he came for 3 weeks holiday, and when he met his girl friend the last day, he decided to come back 3 months later for her. Which he had now started a hotel business. His girl friend, a typical Cambodian, decent looking, small eyes, pimple filled face, dark complexion is kind of surprise to us.

Coco and I have since then had a few wild thought. We have even drafted our next plan, a secret project...lol...you don't need to guess, all you can do is give us your blessings!


Morning shopping

We woke up the next morning and find our way to market again. I bought a beautiful silver necklace, it's bad luck for them not to be able to sell to the first customer from the start of the day. Hence I got a real bargain. Coco bought the most glamorous bracelet from the stall. Sofea managed to get a sling over bag similar to the one I bought, she wanted one when she saw mine...sigh..women!


Flight to home

Hours before boarding, we were yakking about the delicious nasi lemak on Air Asia plane. We patiently waited for the plane, knowing a sandwich in the airport cafe will cost us $3 by itself.

We walloped the only 2 nasi lemak meal left on the plane, each cost RM8. It's all they have, we were the only lucky ones who get it...feeling contented, we shared among 3 of us. Oh man, nasi lemak never tasted so good.

Gosh, we must have missed home too.

Next plan?

Anyway, we really had a good time (at least I did)... plans for the next trip were briefly discussed... can't wait for it!

As for this trip, it's memorable, we had shared so much laughers, joy, bitter and sweet.

Although Cambodia is of Third World country, but traveling in it is a unique experience. Truly an eye opener! It let me ponder and think a lot even when I'm back at home. It differs to my visits to European countries, besides the sight seeing, there's something more they have offered... the cultural and the people. It's simply amazing... too bad we were in the rush to see so many things in such a short stays. It's best to visit at this time when their tourism just took off as many things are still genuine. And, shopping is good too, love the cheap handicrafts!

Oh ya... frequently asked question to me: how much have I spent? It's about RM800 including my flight (RM293+25USD tax), Accomodation (total 24USD for 4 nites), logistics (guide+driver both in P Penh and S Reap), tickets to angkor and other sights, meals, excludes souvenirs.

And remember to read lonely planet before going, or you can always borrow from me *wink*!
Some travel guide from
virtual tourist